Yup, you’re right, good catch 🙂
Yup, you’re right, good catch 🙂
You need to report two numbers for a classifier, though. I can create a classifier that catches all cases of autism just by saying that everybody has autism. You also need a false positive rate.
Depends on where you live. I live in a desert where the humidity is often <10% and have left PETG and PLA rolls out for several weeks at a time with no issues. With nylons I’ve been a bit more careful, though I’m not sure I need to be.
What kind of climate do you live in?
Prusa machines come with phenomenal support, why not consult them directly?
+1 for Voron. I just finished up mine and am pleased with the results. Totally open source, modifiable, and unlike Prusa machines not based on a 5-year old design. (This is coming from somebody who loves the MK3S+ but was very disappointed with the MK4’s marginal improvement and botch-job of a lunch)
That is an incredibly overgeneralized view of the situation. It’s precisely this kind of polarization, and viewing everything in terms of black and white, that Putin and allies are reveling in.
Nice! I’m looking for a label maker for a similar setup. What do you recommend?
This is the first week I’ve been working on it, I’d estimate maybe 10 hours so far, most of it last Sunday.
Subbed!
Are you aware of anything like this for text messages? Google messages filters a lot, but a) it’s not perfect, and b) it’s app specific
I’m running Immich on an Odroid N2 and it’s great! https://immich.app/
It definitely won’t be a perfect match what you see on your monitor vs in real life. Fact is, rgb color rendering can’t capture the full spectrum of light that actually reflects from objects.
But, it should give a good ballpark estimate of what a filament should look like, or relative colors. The site owner does all of the color determination himself, so variability from person to person/camera to camera should be one that’s taken out of the equation.
The part that you’re referring to is a little closer to the color as stands by itself. I also had wipe to infill turned on and I’m not entirely convinced that the “opaque red” is really 100% opaque.
I had to search for a while to find a good red that I liked. I really want to try Dragon Red by Materio3D (link) but they’ve been out of stock for a while, even on Voxel Factory’s website so I think they’ve stopped making it.
I printed on a MK3S+ with MMU2s. The modifications I mentioned in my other comment have made it rock solid, a couple thousand color changes on this print without issue.
Yup, I like that stuff, too. I just printed some shelf brackets in Hatchbox wood PLA. Lots of stringing but they look pretty sweet after post processing.
What size nozzle do you use with it? I’ve seen lots of suggestions for 0.6mm and up, but I’ve been able to print with a 0.4mm without clogs.
That’s another new one for me. Do you have an enclosure? Thanks for sharing!
I like Paramount 3D for their colors, too. Lots of places have the “basic” colors, but Paramount has a lot of interesting mixes (and names!)
Never printed ABS, but that’s just because I don’t have an enclosure.
Wow, cool! Did you design the electronics as well?
That’s a great idea. See if you can interact with it at all. Printrun is another option if you don’t want to set up Octoprint.